Praise Of Sangria: Why The Only Cocktail ‘Made In Spain’ Deserves More Respect Fears

Made In Spain Associated with summer and the beach bar, its origin lacks epic resonances and its recipe is (or seems) simple. But nothing fascinates foreign tourists more. It is no longer just a wine fight with fruits, but it also makes its way into the large cocktail bars “Sounding in the rocks and the Hamptons / Sangría and Valentino / In the Palace and in the Chinese”.

Everything seems to be related to Rosalia. Until the bleeding. These ironic verses of his single Aute Cuture contrast distanced worlds that converge on it. And it is that by itself the sangria does not finish finding the definitive push that links it with the glamor of other popular drinks. And that in New York is drunk for years. Without the Spain brand being aware.

Why The Only Cocktail Made In Spain Deserves More Respect
Why The Only Cocktail Made In Spain Deserves More Respect

The only cocktail in the house has his spoiled brother in the Anglo-Saxon punch. About him, emerged within the British Indian Company, books have been written and engravings have been made. Sangria is associated with summer and the beach bar, its ritual lacks mysticism and its birth of epic resonances. Last year it had an unusual role when a proud French sangria and spiced with LSD gave rise to the deranged action of Climax, a psychotropic film by Gaspar Noah.

However, for Patxi Troitiño, veteran mixologist of Errenteria who revalued these jugs in bars such as Astoria7 or Akelarre, the sangria is still a punch. But no, he insists, “in Spain we don’t have an international cocktail.”

When not even the beer cane has its same identity. In summer, the purely Spanish cocktail – along with the half combination – goes outside of Spain more than the gintónic. But it has been sold fatally and does not appear in the International Bartenders Association (IBA), which records all the recipes of official cocktails. Even so, the EU recognizes sangria as a cocktail with designation of origin: no other can be called that if it does not come from Spain or Portugal.

The wine, unfortunately for many purists, has always been mixed. Before the sangria, the kalimotxo and the rebuild of the fair, fortified wines (port, madeiras and jereces) were noble ingredients of the first cocktail bar. Even ancestral traditions talk about it. Killing Jews is a name inherited from the fourteenth century: the authorities allowed to drink during a Good Friday a wine lemonade lowered with water, lemon and sugar to appease the Lions who came to the Jewish quarter claiming revenge. In Andalusia, fruit cut into the potion began to be included, as a result of sweetening the bad wine, as well as spices and cinnamon. In 1930 Pedro Chicote already included in his fundamental work The Wet Law a list of punches and also of sangarees.

What came first, the sangria or your English voice? As with other cocktails, we may never know. Some place the Iberian drink at the dawn of the 19th century but, as the expert Ted Haigh, known as Dr. Cocktail, in the Imbibe magazine tells us, «the drink of red wine, citrus and sugar that we call sangria dates from 1961, while Sangaree has been around since at least 1774 ». Both with the same Spanish root, blood, inspired by its unmistakable color.

Sangaree could be an English invention of Antillean origin – or American before there was – that mixed wine with water, sugar and nutmeg. Spanish merchants may have added Javanese rum. Jerry Thomas, the professor, reflected his popularity with six versions in his seminal Bartenders Guide of 1862. Over time, citrus fruits disappeared, the Ban brought his decline and the new sangria, with ice and lighter red wines, was presented in the Spanish pavilion of the New York World Exhibition in 1964. Blood lemonade was something else.

In the recent talk given by François Monti and Diego Cabrera in Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans, it was shown that the Spaniard does not bleed. “It’s a topic, it is drunk by foreigners, it was for the tourist. Before it was taken but they were not good,” says Diego. “We had to put it in the hotels we collaborate with. There are many Americans who ask for it when they arrive in Spain. We had to make a good sangria because we didn’t have it before and they didn’t understand it.”

You can also ask in Viva Madrid: “Our sangria is spectacular. We macerate a young wine with nuts and fresh fruit. Perhaps it is not the most aesthetic because what it sells is the jar with the wooden shovel and the fruit salad inside to drink it in Ibiza with a paella. That the paella is bad and the sangria too. ” Today the sangria is packaged as a gourmet drink (such as La Cala Albert Adrià, bottled version of which Marc Álvarez devised for the Adrià group’s premises), it is made homemade in cocktail bars

Americans and walks in jugs through luxurious places in Singapore and China thanks to the eye of Javier de las Muelas. In the Cachitos restaurant in Barcelona there are up to 55 different types. The Fismuler’s cava causes a sensation. And Miguel Ángel Jiménez, in the new Patio de Leones tavern on Serrano street in Madrid, has designed three author sangria: an ink with cinnamon and blackberry cordial, a cava with cucumber and cava cordial, and a white with muscat .

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